DAY 2
Sat. 07/07/07
TORKHEM – LANDI KOTHAL
0500hrs:
The torment of a sleepless night was compounded by the intermittence of electricity, paucity of water and by extension facilities to attend to the call of nature completing a not so pleasant scenario. I had to wait in a queue to utilise a toilet whose stench was enough to throw up anything I had eat the night before. Having been in Pakistan for close to 2 years and 3 months, perhaps worked in my favour!
0600hrs:
I am ready to officially start my cycle ride as I gently cruise to the Afghan-Pak border post. Initially, the ‘Khasadar’ (Tribal agency version of the police) are reluctant in allowing me to take any photographs but when I tell them of my peace mission, they are quick to change their minds and happily pose for my camera.
As I move out of Torkhem, many people enthusiastically wave me along while others urge me stop and talk to them. After about a kilometre, I am ready for my first break along the roadside. Not having slept all night coupled with the daunting prospect of riding uphill consistently for seven kilometres to my next port of call (Landi Kotal) is not something I’m going to let faze me.
0730hrs:
The going is very slow, I am definitely struggling and the gesture from the customs official at the next check-post is enough to tempt me to stop over for refreshments and a chat. What I find quite surprising is the sheer quantity of trailers with sealed containers that pass through. I counted as many as five a minute and their frequency was incessant. These are trailers that pick up goods/material for US forces in Afghanistan. No doubt, transporters/ exporters and the Government of Pakistan are making a heavy packet out of all this.
0900hrs:
By now, the sun is beginning to make it’s presence felt. My pace has not quickened, rather it has become gradually slower and every passer-by who stops me, gives me an excuse for a welcome break. Children are particularly inquisitive, I just hope that their future is more peaceful than the past and current in which I’ve grown up.
Many vehicles passing by, offer to transport me and/or my belongings but I am resolute in politely declining each time. They all have a common question: Why are you enduring so much pain and hardship? My answer is by now monotonous: "This is all in aid of peace between India and Pakistan." As an individual, I have gone through immense torment attributable to factors totally beyond my control. Many others in this region have gone through much worse. I cannot possibly change the region but I can do my utmost to express myself and make a positive contribution.
1200hrs:
I make it to Michini, which is the major check-post of the Khyber Agency and where the officials kindly invite me to lunch. They also brief me on the history of the region, pointing out Taimur’s (Tamerlane to some) execution chamber in the mountains was particularly poignant. The head official also gives me two water bottles as well as 200 hundred rupees as a token of goodwill to help me along on my travels. I am almost astounded at his generosity as it is exactly 200 hundred rupees more than what anybody has given me thus far in this country!
1400hrs:
This has been the most strenuous bit of exercise that I’ve ever done in my life. Towards the end, my head and feet are boiling, while my eyes are emitting more water than sweat from my body. On reaching Landi Kotal, I make a dash for the nearest general store, slump onto a chair and bark at the owner for a cold drink.
The now familiar question of pain and endurance was repeated, the store owner even suggested that I should have put the cycle in a vehicle and taken the sane option. "Who would know?" he calculated.
The rest of the day was spent lazing around, answering the plethora of questions that many locals had in store for me, it was also an attempt to recuperate. As night fell, a sense of deja vu occurred as the electricity, toilet facilities and as a consequence, another sleepless night loomed.
Thursday, July 26, 2007
DAY 1 FRIDAY 060707
DAY 1
Fri 06/07/07
MIRPUR-ISLAMABAD-PESHAWAR-TORKHEM
Introduction:
I am finally ready to undertake a project that I’ve been keen to start since January 2006. I’ve prepared myself as well as what has been practical within the limited budget that I have (At this stage, 21,000 PK Rupees to be reasonably precise). I have worked hard to attract funding/advertising revenue from commercial sponsors but nothing concrete has emerged thus far. I urge readers to forgive any rustiness that may transpire from what I write as it’s been over two years since I’ve written regularly. However, I do aim to make my writing and other material (images, audio and video) as interesting, thought-provoking, informative and inoffensive as possible. I wish myself good luck and here goes.
1000hrs:
The final leg of my preparation took me to Mirpur (Pakistan-administered Kashmir) last night as that is where I am depositing my car for safe-keeping (I certainly hope so too). It isn’t before 1000am that I reach Mirpur’s Public Transport Station (Adda) in Nangi and I’m anxious to set-off, desperate to reach Torkhem (on the Afghan-Pak border) by nightfall.
1300hrs:
I reach Islamabad in good time for Jumaa prayers and with enough time to pick up my bicycle from the hotel that had been extremely gracious in looking after it for the past week, while I’ve ran around preparing for this arduous event.
1400hrs:
After a final check from my bicycle mechanic, I set off from G7 (Sitara Market) for the reasonably short ride to G9 (Karachi Company) in search of my mode of transport that will take me to Peshawar.
1530hrs:
I sense a weary and distinct reluctance on the part of the Toyota Coaster to transport my bicycle. However, after some haggling and a promise to pay fifty rupees extra for the trouble (It must be the heat, I reasoned to myself), I am soon lapping up air-conditioned bliss along the Islamabad-Peshawar motorway. I do try and enjoy it while I can as the thought of riding my bicycle accompanied by sixty kilos of luggage, up the Khyber Pass with the midday sun looming, is enough to test the will of the strongest amongst us.
1830hrs:
I’m on target to reach Torkhem tonight so long as I can convince the taxi driver that my bicycle will fit, or rather that half of it will, while the other half can be tightened securely with the car’s boot. I also take the risk of leaving my bicycle et al with him while I dash to the nearest mosque to offer my Asr prayers with only his ID card as my guarantee of nothing untoward.
As we travel along the Peshawar-Torkhem Highway, the driver sings the praises of the Pathan spirit of faith, trustworthiness and unflinching respect for the guest. Taking my current experience into account, I nod vigorously and affirmatively.
2030hrs:
The drive from Peshawar isn’t half as far as I thought it would be (a mere 45km in all) and our journey is spent discussing my bicycle ride with the driver doubling up as a translator for the three Afghani passengers at the back going to visit their homeland. Sustained peace between India and Pakistan would provide a desperately needed boost to both countries’ economies, with the general public reaping the dividends, was our unanimous conclusion. They praise me vociferously on my intended effort and pledge to implore Allah’s help for success. I thank them for their generous words as we part company.
2130hrs:
People in Torkhem are extremely keen to know where I am from and what I am aiming to do. When I tell them I am from Kashmir, there is an immediate affection resonating from their words and this adds to my conviction that what I am aiming to do is within reach. The night isn’t so pleasant, the thoughts that are racing through my mind accompanied by the seemingly limitless array of insects feasting on me is more than enough to keep me awake till dawn.
Fri 06/07/07
MIRPUR-ISLAMABAD-PESHAWAR-TORKHEM
Introduction:
I am finally ready to undertake a project that I’ve been keen to start since January 2006. I’ve prepared myself as well as what has been practical within the limited budget that I have (At this stage, 21,000 PK Rupees to be reasonably precise). I have worked hard to attract funding/advertising revenue from commercial sponsors but nothing concrete has emerged thus far. I urge readers to forgive any rustiness that may transpire from what I write as it’s been over two years since I’ve written regularly. However, I do aim to make my writing and other material (images, audio and video) as interesting, thought-provoking, informative and inoffensive as possible. I wish myself good luck and here goes.
1000hrs:
The final leg of my preparation took me to Mirpur (Pakistan-administered Kashmir) last night as that is where I am depositing my car for safe-keeping (I certainly hope so too). It isn’t before 1000am that I reach Mirpur’s Public Transport Station (Adda) in Nangi and I’m anxious to set-off, desperate to reach Torkhem (on the Afghan-Pak border) by nightfall.
1300hrs:
I reach Islamabad in good time for Jumaa prayers and with enough time to pick up my bicycle from the hotel that had been extremely gracious in looking after it for the past week, while I’ve ran around preparing for this arduous event.
1400hrs:
After a final check from my bicycle mechanic, I set off from G7 (Sitara Market) for the reasonably short ride to G9 (Karachi Company) in search of my mode of transport that will take me to Peshawar.
1530hrs:
I sense a weary and distinct reluctance on the part of the Toyota Coaster to transport my bicycle. However, after some haggling and a promise to pay fifty rupees extra for the trouble (It must be the heat, I reasoned to myself), I am soon lapping up air-conditioned bliss along the Islamabad-Peshawar motorway. I do try and enjoy it while I can as the thought of riding my bicycle accompanied by sixty kilos of luggage, up the Khyber Pass with the midday sun looming, is enough to test the will of the strongest amongst us.
1830hrs:
I’m on target to reach Torkhem tonight so long as I can convince the taxi driver that my bicycle will fit, or rather that half of it will, while the other half can be tightened securely with the car’s boot. I also take the risk of leaving my bicycle et al with him while I dash to the nearest mosque to offer my Asr prayers with only his ID card as my guarantee of nothing untoward.
As we travel along the Peshawar-Torkhem Highway, the driver sings the praises of the Pathan spirit of faith, trustworthiness and unflinching respect for the guest. Taking my current experience into account, I nod vigorously and affirmatively.
2030hrs:
The drive from Peshawar isn’t half as far as I thought it would be (a mere 45km in all) and our journey is spent discussing my bicycle ride with the driver doubling up as a translator for the three Afghani passengers at the back going to visit their homeland. Sustained peace between India and Pakistan would provide a desperately needed boost to both countries’ economies, with the general public reaping the dividends, was our unanimous conclusion. They praise me vociferously on my intended effort and pledge to implore Allah’s help for success. I thank them for their generous words as we part company.
2130hrs:
People in Torkhem are extremely keen to know where I am from and what I am aiming to do. When I tell them I am from Kashmir, there is an immediate affection resonating from their words and this adds to my conviction that what I am aiming to do is within reach. The night isn’t so pleasant, the thoughts that are racing through my mind accompanied by the seemingly limitless array of insects feasting on me is more than enough to keep me awake till dawn.
Cost Analysis
PREAMBLE:
I strongly believe that this is a unique opportunity for commercial companies to invoke their ethical responsibilities and make a contribution to peace in the Indo-Pak region. Needless to add, peace brings prosperity and if my objectives are realised on this cycle ride, the dividends would accrue to all those concerned with this project. I would dearly have loved to have undertaken all costs involved myself. Alas, my financial circumstances dictate otherwise.
COST ANALYSIS TABLE
PAKISTAN (APPROX. 50 DAYS FROM LATE JUNE TO MID AUGUST)
ITEMS
PK RUPEES
CYCLE
17,500
LAPTOP
50,000
SATELLITE PHONE
50,000
VIDEO CAMERA
3,50,000
STILL CAMERA
50,000
DATA STORAGE DEVICE/S
30,000
LIVING COSTS (HOTELS/FOOD ETC. @ 3K PD)
1,50,000
STAFF COSTS (CAMERAMAN/ASSISTANT)
1,00,000
COMMUNICATION COSTS (NET & PHONE)
50,000
VEHICLE RENT (@1.5K PD)
75,000
ADVERTISING/PUBLICITY/PRINTING ETC.
1,00,000
WEBSITE CONSTRUCTION & MAINTENANCE
1,00,000
FUEL (@ RS300 PD)
15,000
MISC. & ANY BUDGETARY DISCREPANCY
1,00,000
TOTAL
12,37,500
INDIA (APPROX, 100 DAYS FROM MID AUGUST TO EARLY DECEMBER)
LIVING COSTS (@3K PD)
3,00,000
STAFF COSTS
2,00,000
COMMUNICATION COSTS
1,00,000
ADVERTISING/PUBLICITY/PRINTING ETC.
2,00,000
VEHICLE RENT (@1.5K PD)
1,50,000
FUEL (@RS300 PD)
30,000
MISC. & ANY BUDGETARY DISCREPANCY
1,00,000
TOTAL
10,80,000
GRAND TOTAL
23,17,500
OPTIONS
The above can either be borne by one single commercial entity or split up between four different companies @ PK Rupees 3.09 Lakhs each (For Paksitan), 2.70 Lakhs (For India) or 5.79 Lakhs for both countries. The coverage for your company would include logos on T-shirts that I wear everyday, on the road as well as at any press conferences that may be conducted (including staff), livery on the vehicle being used by my staff, links on my websites and exposure to any other media that may cover the event. I am grateful for the time taken in reading this and am hopeful of your co-operation.
Thank You
Tanveer Ahmed (MD-Maloomaat PVT Ltd.)
I strongly believe that this is a unique opportunity for commercial companies to invoke their ethical responsibilities and make a contribution to peace in the Indo-Pak region. Needless to add, peace brings prosperity and if my objectives are realised on this cycle ride, the dividends would accrue to all those concerned with this project. I would dearly have loved to have undertaken all costs involved myself. Alas, my financial circumstances dictate otherwise.
COST ANALYSIS TABLE
PAKISTAN (APPROX. 50 DAYS FROM LATE JUNE TO MID AUGUST)
ITEMS
PK RUPEES
CYCLE
17,500
LAPTOP
50,000
SATELLITE PHONE
50,000
VIDEO CAMERA
3,50,000
STILL CAMERA
50,000
DATA STORAGE DEVICE/S
30,000
LIVING COSTS (HOTELS/FOOD ETC. @ 3K PD)
1,50,000
STAFF COSTS (CAMERAMAN/ASSISTANT)
1,00,000
COMMUNICATION COSTS (NET & PHONE)
50,000
VEHICLE RENT (@1.5K PD)
75,000
ADVERTISING/PUBLICITY/PRINTING ETC.
1,00,000
WEBSITE CONSTRUCTION & MAINTENANCE
1,00,000
FUEL (@ RS300 PD)
15,000
MISC. & ANY BUDGETARY DISCREPANCY
1,00,000
TOTAL
12,37,500
INDIA (APPROX, 100 DAYS FROM MID AUGUST TO EARLY DECEMBER)
LIVING COSTS (@3K PD)
3,00,000
STAFF COSTS
2,00,000
COMMUNICATION COSTS
1,00,000
ADVERTISING/PUBLICITY/PRINTING ETC.
2,00,000
VEHICLE RENT (@1.5K PD)
1,50,000
FUEL (@RS300 PD)
30,000
MISC. & ANY BUDGETARY DISCREPANCY
1,00,000
TOTAL
10,80,000
GRAND TOTAL
23,17,500
OPTIONS
The above can either be borne by one single commercial entity or split up between four different companies @ PK Rupees 3.09 Lakhs each (For Paksitan), 2.70 Lakhs (For India) or 5.79 Lakhs for both countries. The coverage for your company would include logos on T-shirts that I wear everyday, on the road as well as at any press conferences that may be conducted (including staff), livery on the vehicle being used by my staff, links on my websites and exposure to any other media that may cover the event. I am grateful for the time taken in reading this and am hopeful of your co-operation.
Thank You
Tanveer Ahmed (MD-Maloomaat PVT Ltd.)
Ride for Movement & Peace
Letter to Commercial Companies operating in Indo-Pak
PERSONAL PROFILE:
My name is Tanveer Ahmed. I was born in Pakistan-administered Kashmir but have lived in the UK since the age of 4. Having had a mixed education of Madrassah and Secular in the UK before graduating in Economics and working in Finance and IT, I felt it absolutely imperative to become a journalist in the wake of 9/11. I have now been ‘stuck’ in Pakistan for over 26 months pursuing a 20 year old ambition of re-uniting my Muslim ‘Naani’ (maternal grandmother) with her Hindu siblings living approximately 90 kilometres away on the other side of the ‘Line of Control’ (separated since 1947).
ISSUE AND MOTIVATION
Initially, I went through a formal procedure of applying for an Indian visa in London before being requested to re-apply again in Islamabad, albeit without success. I then subsequently raised the issue with numerous influential individuals and organizations in Pakistan as well as with Indians that I've had the opportunity of meeting here, alas nothing positive surfaced. I have found it impossible to contemplate returning to the UK without fulfilling this quest which has disturbed me throughout my adult life (My Naani brought me up for those first 4 years of my life). Straining to make some tangible progress, I've decided to embark on a bicycle ride as of 06/07/07, starting from Torkham (NWFP), travelling along the famous GT Rd. aiming to cover the breadth of Pakistan and India, with a focus on gauging common people's thoughts on the ground and striving to create an atmosphere of friendship and mutual confidence with a stress on social harmony, the virtues of diversity and balanced economic development.
In the meantime, I’ve had to abandon my journalism career in the UK (I have previously been editor of The Muslim Weekly, have corresponded from Iraq and Afghanistan and have done radio correspondence and web features for the BBC), I have set up my own Media company (Maloomaat Pvt. Ltd.) and have entitled this bicycle ride as a ‘Ride for Movement and Peace’.
AMBITION
No doubt, the motivation for my plan derives primarily from my personal circumstances. However, having witnessed Indians and Pakistanis co-existing harmoniously and productively in far flung corners of the world, there has developed a burning ambition to refrain from concentrating on my personal issue and working constructively to alleviate the obstacles that face people residing in this region. Thereby playing my part in helping to achieve a positive ground change in what has historically been one South Asian homeland.
REQUEST
In my research over the past two years here, I feel that both countries are unanimous in understanding that the peace process must now be taken up by both publics in order to inspire confidence into their respective governments to bring changes that reflect peace, progress and harmony. I intend to make my contribution by obtaining finance from commercial organisations (as opposed to governments or other funding organisations) as it is always the business community that accurately reflects changing patterns in society. Hence, my request for assistance in this matter.
PERSONAL PROFILE:
My name is Tanveer Ahmed. I was born in Pakistan-administered Kashmir but have lived in the UK since the age of 4. Having had a mixed education of Madrassah and Secular in the UK before graduating in Economics and working in Finance and IT, I felt it absolutely imperative to become a journalist in the wake of 9/11. I have now been ‘stuck’ in Pakistan for over 26 months pursuing a 20 year old ambition of re-uniting my Muslim ‘Naani’ (maternal grandmother) with her Hindu siblings living approximately 90 kilometres away on the other side of the ‘Line of Control’ (separated since 1947).
ISSUE AND MOTIVATION
Initially, I went through a formal procedure of applying for an Indian visa in London before being requested to re-apply again in Islamabad, albeit without success. I then subsequently raised the issue with numerous influential individuals and organizations in Pakistan as well as with Indians that I've had the opportunity of meeting here, alas nothing positive surfaced. I have found it impossible to contemplate returning to the UK without fulfilling this quest which has disturbed me throughout my adult life (My Naani brought me up for those first 4 years of my life). Straining to make some tangible progress, I've decided to embark on a bicycle ride as of 06/07/07, starting from Torkham (NWFP), travelling along the famous GT Rd. aiming to cover the breadth of Pakistan and India, with a focus on gauging common people's thoughts on the ground and striving to create an atmosphere of friendship and mutual confidence with a stress on social harmony, the virtues of diversity and balanced economic development.
In the meantime, I’ve had to abandon my journalism career in the UK (I have previously been editor of The Muslim Weekly, have corresponded from Iraq and Afghanistan and have done radio correspondence and web features for the BBC), I have set up my own Media company (Maloomaat Pvt. Ltd.) and have entitled this bicycle ride as a ‘Ride for Movement and Peace’.
AMBITION
No doubt, the motivation for my plan derives primarily from my personal circumstances. However, having witnessed Indians and Pakistanis co-existing harmoniously and productively in far flung corners of the world, there has developed a burning ambition to refrain from concentrating on my personal issue and working constructively to alleviate the obstacles that face people residing in this region. Thereby playing my part in helping to achieve a positive ground change in what has historically been one South Asian homeland.
REQUEST
In my research over the past two years here, I feel that both countries are unanimous in understanding that the peace process must now be taken up by both publics in order to inspire confidence into their respective governments to bring changes that reflect peace, progress and harmony. I intend to make my contribution by obtaining finance from commercial organisations (as opposed to governments or other funding organisations) as it is always the business community that accurately reflects changing patterns in society. Hence, my request for assistance in this matter.
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